Cape Town, 22nd
of August 2018 – On our first full day in Cape Town, we step onto the boat to
visit Robben Island. The waters in front of Cape Town are treacherous and
sometimes the trip to Robben Island gets cancelled because of bad weather or a wild
sea. We are lucky; it is only cloudy and a bit nippy. We sail on the Madiba 1 and
although the island seems to be within arm’s reach, it takes us about one hour
to get there. Once there, we get onto a compulsory bus, taking us on a tour of
the prison island. On the bus, a pretty, self-conscious woman wearing a
headscarf and a rainbow coloured necklace, welcomes us in a loud and clear
voice: “My name is Wwwwendy, and I will guide you through the island”. The
headscarf or ‘Doek’ in Afrikaans used to be a sign of submission, as black
workers had to wear it as part of a cleaning uniform. It can also be a
religious, cultural or fashion statement. During our trip, we saw the most
intricately folded and colourful doeks and they do look stylish. Wendy gives a
brief overview of the way apartheid was conquered. She always speaks very
respectful of ‘Doctor’ Nelson Mandela. Eighteen years he spent on Robben
Island, having to fight for every small privilege: better food, better bedding,
newspapers, a radio… During the forced labour in the quarry, the prisoners did
not get sunglasses and badly damaged their eyes. Nelson Mandela ruined his tear
glands and suffered from dry eyes ever after. In the last two years of his twenty-year
sentence, the government moved him to Drakenstein and started the dialogues that
would end apartheid. Inside the prison cells, we get a tour from Sipho Msomi,
an ANC member, imprisoned in the eighties for five years. He shows us Madiba’s
cell n°5. We look through the bars into a small, cold cell and imagine the
prisoner, unyielding in his opinions and beliefs.
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Cell n° 5 (FDC) |
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The quarry where Nelson Mandela did forced labour (FDC) |
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